Tunisian BBQ or Why I Like Traveling

I recently enjoyed some very fresh lamb at a truck stop on the main road between Southern Tunisia and Libya. Luckily I was with some friends who knew what cuts to choose from a hanging carcass, neatly disemboweled, with the wool coat still on its back. We opted for some ribs, heart, liver and various other bits I couldn't recall ever seeing at my local supermarket. Once the cuts were hacked off in the correct manner, the rest of the carcass was left swinging in the passing breeze, caused by motorists driving a little too fast (Libyans, according to the Tunisians).

While the lamb was cooking over hot coals, the typical Tunisian appetizers arrived including fresh french bread, a salad garnished with a few flakes of tuna, olives and of course Harissa. Harissa is a fiery little condiment made primarily from red peppers, much beloved by Tunisians (and myself.) Once the lamb was served, in eight bowls of varying styles, the four of us silently scrunched through about 5 kilos of meat, washed down with warm Coca-Cola. It was the best lamb I've ever eaten. We also lucked out that there was soap available (laundry detergent in a cut off plastic bottle) to wash our grease stained faces and hands, right next to the squat toilet. Once the bones had been licked clean, we resumed our conversation in four languages and wild hand gestures.

Lamb is not the only meat available from these North African style truck stops. The next day I caught a glimpse of a baby camel tethered to a restaurant shack. Apparently the adults are really not tender enough and I'd imagine you'd need to luck into several hungry busloads of people to finish one off before the flies and rot settled in. Despite the fact that I pride myself on trying most things when traveling, I couldn't bring myself to stop and get a taste. Maybe next time, and maybe if it wasn't quite so fresh. I also happen to like camels more than sheep. They're much easier to ride when you want to wander off and enjoy a sunset in the Sahara. More on that later...

_{Image of the offerings at a roadside cafe in Tunisia -- © Anouk Zijlma}