Safari Ethics

A blog on the Compassionate Traveler web site about safari ethics caught my eye today because it described how I felt while on a recent safari in South Africa. In pursuit of an intimate safari experience I headed out to a private reserve called Timbavati, just outside of Kruger. I was excited that the safari vehicles could drive at night, go off-road to track wildlife, that we could get out of our vehicle and picnic as the sun went down, and all the other perks that you don't get when driving around National Parks (they have much stricter rules). The benefit of being able to actively pursue wildlife -- you're guaranteed to see more animals and that's what defines a successful safari experience to most visitors as well as managers of these parks.

But I found the hectic rush to see the Big Five distasteful. After racing around looking for rhinos, we spotted a family of three rhino, two adults and a young baby. The rhinos were obviously terrified and trying to run away as we roared over thorn bushes with all of us clinging to our cameras to get a good shot. It didn't exactly feel like we were one with nature. I thought if people only have a day and a half and want to see the Big Five in these parks, they should just go to a zoo.

We missed a lot of the fabulous bird life, ignored the impalas, and barely glanced at the zebras en route to a pride of lions that were lazing under a tree. The jeep was parked close enough to smell their breath. Fantastic experience yes, but it also felt a little invasive. If a lion is having a nap close to a road, they can just move along and choose another spot to get away from the vehicles and cameras. But here we were driving deep into the bush to park in their midst and naturally when they got up to move, we followed.

Now, it really isn't policy for the rangers to harass animals at all. They are well trained in animal behavior and will obviously leave the scene if danger is imminent or the animal is really getting disturbed. But they also have a vehicle full of expectant visitors who have paid quite a lot to see African wildlife. It's this notion, that safari goers want to see the Big Five at all costs and as close as possible, that drives this type of safari experience. Guaranteeing visitors that they will see certain animals is taking the joy out of the safari experience in my opinion. It's taking the wild out of wildlife and making it dull and predictable. Choose a safari where there are no guarantees and plenty of time to smell the thorn bushes. It'll be a better experience.

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_{Chasing Rhinos -- © Anouk Zijlma}